[9/11 RSX-s]

Nope, that is old school American V8 thinking (uhm, been there, done that back in the day).

Also, regular silicone is not O2 sensor safe, so would be a bad idea anyway.

 

[9/11 RSX-s]

The Cold Idle Assist thingy only makes a difference when the engine (coolant) is cold. Once the engine is warm, that valve closes and has no effect.

The port on the Intake manifold is not coolant, it is air. That must be plugged if you removed the Idle Air valve.

Uhm, I don't think there are any vacuum nipples on the stock TB. But there are two pipes that bring coolant to the area of the IACV (to warm the idle air). The port/nipple on your TB is no doubt for the IACV coolant/heat (that is what it is on the Hybrid TB that you mention). I would just plug that port/nipple on your new TB.

The IACV bolts directly to the TB and has no external air connections (at least that is true of mating it to the stock TB and Hybrid TB... I don't know anything about your TB, but it looks like it would work the same as stock).

Your MAP could be a 3-bar sensor for boost applications. Does it appear to be stock?

Only Base models have secondary runners. Your friend has been smoking VTEC fluid again.

You don't need K-Pro for the RBC, but you might for the TB (to calibrate the TPS and to compensate for the difference in size... a 70 mm at 10% open is vastly different than a 62 mm at 10% open)

 

[9/11 RSX-s]

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Ignore the hole in the photo. That is for the heat/coolant line to heat up the area of the IACV and thus your idle air.
Looks like you connected a hose to the IACV. Why? That also is a coolant line to heat up the IACV (one for fluid in, one for fluid out). As I said above, there is no vacuum/air hose involved in an IACV; it directly mates to the TB.

Looks like an OEM MAP to me.

 

[9/11 RSX-s]

Thank's for the informative reply, where exactly is the plug you speak of that must be plugged? and what could I use to plug it?

So you said that you removed the Idle Air Assist Valve (or whatever it is called); the thingy up by the front right corner of the valve cover that screws into the head and has one rubber hose going to the air cleaner and one to the intake manifold. If you really removed that thing, then you need to plug the nipple on the intake manifold that used to be connected to the IAAV (the nipple is close to the head next to one of the runners), else that is a vacuum leak. You can buy rubber caps for that short of thing at any auto parts store.

One could well ask why you would bother to remove it... This thing does not hurt performance, it just lets your car idle higher until it gets up to operating temperature. Maybe the boost guys block this off so they don't blow boost out of it... but that could only happen while the engine is cold, and you shouldn't be jumping on it then anyway (or maybe with extreme boost that valve gets forced open and leaks boost...). Anyway, if you are NA, I don't know of any reason to remove the Idle Air Assist Valve.