Sure. You can snip off the old bands and then re-band them (you will need a banding tool) or simpler yet, just get the hypodermic needle attachment for your grease gun and slide that under the lip of the boot and just pump up as needed.

 

Folks, I bought a needle for my grease gun and CV grease (several tubes) and punched a hole (a little one) in the boot and put the CV grease inside. I then wiped and cleaned the hole with cleaner and put a dab of blue glue on the hole. I did this several times on a 4wd AMC Rambler that had 280k miles on it. The axles and boots were perfectly tight and ran like a top. I am going to do it again on my 2013 grand cherokee jeep. abner

 

Why would you want to re-grease the CV joints if the boots are OK? The grease already there will far outlast the boots. The grease is special grease and the boots are completely packed with it. If you put in the wrong type of grease you could do more harm than good.

 

Boots are ok, doesn't meant the grease inside the boot are. Grease dont last forever when it at high temp, because movement of the balls inside the boots will cause the grease to thin, weak, and change color like milkshake. Then the balls will going out of shapes. That's how the axles will be F..k.
my car is over 100 k miles, the grease is old, maybe not thick anymore, I think is kinda brown, liquid. I want to take care before the axles going badly at high speed or the balls inside wont last long. I have researched that we should grease the axles once a while to keep it in good mood. like every 5 years, or high mileages.

 

I think you're wasting your time. There is no requirement in the service manual or owners manual for replacing CV joint grease. The grease will far outlast the boots. It makes sense to replace the boots, though. The boots come with the right grease (if you buy OEM boots). But then you have to remove the axles.

 

Did your boys at Firestone tell you that grease story?

 

if the grease looks like a milkshake then street contamination has worked its way in there. in other words the boots are not okay.

 

I just finished the driver side axle. I put more High Temp Grease that I got from Autozone, the new grease look like cheese color. It was tough when I put the new clamp for the inner axles.
I just jack up the car, remove the wheel, then remove the old clamp, put more new grease, put new clamp. Tomorrow, I will finish the passenger side.
I know the manual never tell us do it. But I try to see if I can improve or shorten the life of these axles.

 

Your instincts are 100% correct.
You can substantially improve the life of most CV joints by repacking them.
Take my 2005 Subaru Impreza for example. an extreme case that makes this clear
The heat of the exhaust under the CV joint super heats the grease and it all spins out.
Yes, between the boot, where it is clamped, and the shaft.
There are no tears or holes in the boot. you can see where the grease was flung and cooled and piled up. A well documented problem that should have a heat shield or something.
And Subaru is happy to repack for $200 if YOU catch the problem ! otherwise they get ya for a $500 CV replacement later.
If you look inside used CV joints that are not torn boots, you will wonder where all the grease went? I suspect the above phenomenon happens on a lessor or over a longer period of time, to many CV joints. I heard one comment that boots crack sooner due to loss of lubrication inside. I think this is one of the auto industries dirty little secrets that
gets blamed on the eventual torn boot. I think heat degradation in CV joints, is more
rampant than the industry admits to.
I went from Honda to Subaru to get away from CV joint issues, and now this?!?
I'm thinking "hose clamp", instead of the original; so I can just keep pack'en er.

 

Your instincts are 100% correct.
You can substantially improve the life of most CV joints by repacking them.
Take my 2005 Subaru Impreza for example. an extreme case that makes this clear
The heat of the exhaust under the CV joint super heats the grease and it all spins out.
Yes, between the boot, where it is clamped, and the shaft.
There are no tears or holes in the boot. you can see where the grease was flung and cooled and piled up. A well documented problem that should have a heat shield or something.
And Subaru is happy to repack for $200 if YOU catch the problem ! otherwise they get ya for a $500 CV replacement later.
If you look inside used CV joints that are not torn boots, you will wonder where all the grease went? I suspect the above phenomenon happens on a lessor or over a longer period of time, to many CV joints. I heard one comment that boots crack sooner due to loss of lubrication inside. I think this is one of the auto industries dirty little secrets that
gets blamed on the eventual torn boot. I think heat degradation in CV joints, is more
rampant than the industry admits to.
I went from Honda to Subaru to get away from CV joint issues, and now this?!?
I'm thinking "hose clamp", instead of the original; so I can just keep pack'en er.

I actually just found that my original clamp on the outer CV came undone so i put a hose clamp on mine so that i can re pack any time i might need to