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On step 7, to relieve the tension on the belt, its not "lefty loosey, righty tighty"? Because if pulled towards the front of the car, the nut is rotating clockwise. Thanks for the diy.
 
Discussion starter · #223 ·
Basically its leaking from Each of the hoses where it meets the reservoir, can I buy new clamps? or when I replace the pump should I replace the hoses.
I would replace both the hoses and clamps just to be safe.

On step 7, to relieve the tension on the belt, its not "lefty loosey, righty tighty"? Because if pulled towards the front of the car, the nut is rotating clockwise. Thanks for the diy.
You rotate towards the front of the car, which is "righty tighty". When the pulley goes clockwise it puts tension against the spring inside the tensioner.

-Henry
 
Sorry to bump an old thread but I wanted to point out that I just did this and I had to use two 16x1.5 metric to -6 AN adapters on my 05 type S, both where that size not one that size and one 14x1.5.

Right now I and trying to figure out what size belt I need since I have a bigger (k24) crank pulley.
Can anyone confirm this? im about to do this on a 06 rsx type-s. so im confused do i use two 16x1.5 metric to -6 adapters or one 16x1.5 and one 14x1.5?
 
make sure the belt is not the EP3 belt, make sure its 50.5"
I'm confused on what belt/size to buy. I am going to install the ep3 idler pulley and keep my ac. As i do my research my set up calls for a ep3 belt and the ep3 belt is a 50.5 7 rib. But KazeSpec says to not get the ep3 belt to retain ac. Any insight is appreciated, thanks
 
Thank you KazeSpec for this DIY

Completed this with the help of a friend last weekend, can't think of why it took me so long to do it! Car feels so much more confident, night and day difference.

And surprisingly I thought it would be a lot worse than what it ended up being in regards to turning the wheel at a stand still. Its all about where you place your hands on the wheel/muscle it!

Quick question however - Do I need to top off the fluid in the rack? or whatever fluid spilled out through the removal of hoses and pump is the normal amount to lose and what stays in is fine since it was level and wheels were straight to begin with?

I will recommend this to diy to anyone considering it.
 
I'm confused on what belt/size to buy. I am going to install the ep3 idler pulley and keep my ac. As i do my research my set up calls for a ep3 belt and the ep3 belt is a 50.5 7 rib. But KazeSpec says to not get the ep3 belt to retain ac. Any insight is appreciated, thanks
I took out p/s and kept ac, using the EP3 belt, however I bought the K-Tuned adjustable pulley to use with

Also doesn't KazeSpec state on the first page, to keep AC use the EP3 belt? with EP3 idler pulley
 
I took out p/s and kept ac, using the EP3 belt, however I bought the K-Tuned adjustable pulley to use with

Also doesn't KazeSpec state on the first page, to keep AC use the EP3 belt? with EP3 idler pulley
I'm getting mixed answers from k20a.org and hondatech on which belt to use. So i am asking for any insight for those who kept ac on which belt was used. I will most likely go ahead and buy the ep3 serpentine
 
I'm getting mixed answers from k20a.org and hondatech on which belt to use. So i am asking for any insight for those who kept ac on which belt was used. I will most likely go ahead and buy the ep3 serpentine
If you look at the post you originally quoted from KazeSpec, he was replying to the question in the post directly above (post #115) which was in regards to AC AND PS delete.

This is in the initial post -

EP3 Serpentine Belt (for removing PS only)
Prestone 505K7 Serpentine Belt (for removing both PS and AC)
 
I couldn't find any info for my setup, so I'll post my findings and maybe someone will find it useful.

My setup is K20/24 and I'm using a TSX crank pulley. I deleted PS but kept my AC. Using a K-Tuned adjustable pulley and running an EP3 OEM belt.

I couldn't find what belt to run with the K24 pulley lol cuz everyone seems to be running the K20 one.

Edit: Also, I had to use two 16X1.5 to -06AN adapters on an 06 RSX-S.

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So I just changed my belt to bypass my ps on my rsx to try it out. I find it to be real hard to steer in parking lots ect. and just harder than I expected it to be lol, is it harder because all the lines and fluid are still intact? and once I remove them all and loop the feed/return lines it will be a bit easier? I'm also on 17x9s w/ 235/40s nitto nt05s so tires are kinda sticky I guess, but i'm not sure how much that would effect it.

Thanks
 
So I just changed my belt to bypass my ps on my rsx to try it out. I find it to be real hard to steer in parking lots ect. and just harder than I expected it to be lol, is it harder because all the lines and fluid are still intact? and once I remove them all and loop the feed/return lines it will be a bit easier? I'm also on 17x9s w/ 235/40s nitto nt05s so tires are kinda sticky I guess, but i'm not sure how much that would effect it.

Thanks
I have 255/40 on a 9 inch wheel. Im a little guy. I deleted mine and it was hard as fuck to turn. So I let a ton of fluid out of the rack which helped. Still hard though for my size.

So it will get easier once you remove the lines and let pretty much all the fluid out of the rack. Once the lines are off take the wheel and turn it lock to lock a few times then loop it.
 
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