@dc5cbc05

Thanks for checking in and if you would hang around for awhile. There are not many OG members in the fold these days.

 

Reviving from the dead. Did you ever find out if it was the pump that caused it?

 

In my scenario it was most likely the culprit. The builder did a great job because the cars still running on that rebuild til this day. I actually brought it to work with me haha. You got a similar issue going on?

 

Vacuum line to the power steering came loose but fixed it and now it's driving cool. So I'm only throwin the 41? But it's my O2 sensor since I'm running race header. So it's all good now back to 100% well minus the break in. So just have. To finish this and see how it gors


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ANY updates

 

Well kind of success. Now successful ignition but I'm throwing codes 14,41, and 109 so I have to look into those


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No but success it's running!!!!!!!!!


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Did you at any point mess with the throttle position sensor? Don;t know if this was discussed already or not.

 

Grounds were good. Didn't throw a code but took it to L&T Japanese automotive. I live in la puente

 

What city state you in?

 

maybe could need a dealer relearn or if you know anyone with a snapon scan tool or cornwell there over 5000 scan tools that do everything the dealers do. Im thinking its sum thing electrical or something with the ecu. It might be a long shop but check all your grounds. I have a friend that we did a k24a2 swap and for got to connect 2 grounds, car would not start. Checked everything over to make sure connected and found the grounds.

 

I'm just lost as far as what it could be


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I didn't feel it was off time. Unless it's obvious on that pic but it looked close to me. And when piston was at highest point. The cam marks lined up. And if it was off by one tooth wouldn't it still start up?


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And if it was off by one tooth wouldn't it still start up?..

Yes, and then throw the phase gap code.

I cannot tell you whether or not the motor is in time but nothing you have described so far would actually prevent the car from starting and idling.

 

Did you retime it?

 

Bump for any idea.


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04 base and 05 type a both pulled same part number off acurapartsnow.com

37500-pnb-003


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So for crank and cam sensors i need Z1 specific?


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I may be wrong but I think they are all diff due to crank speed and compression of the engine has different pulse on the sensors.

 

Tried different cam sensors and crank sensor, still nothing. Well it started once and ran rough idk if it was struggling because of the amount of fuel from repeated cranking but didn't start up again.
Also
Cam sensors were off k20z3
Crank sensor was off k20a3
Don't know if that makes a difference I thought I read that they'll all work on any k series. I'm gonna check my ignition relay next i guess.


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I'm trying but don't really have an available local Rsx buddy. but ill see


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crank sensor will give you a crank and no start. If you have a buddy with a good known crank use there to be sure

 

Ok timing spark fuel and fuses are all ok. No codes. I'm thinking it's a faulty sensor. Maybe crank or cam angle


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Crank was set to TDC and cam markings were only off by that much.


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Balls

 

Well I don't have either, but I tries scanning with a paperclip to read the flashing check engine light. But it stayed solid. That was after Taking the battery out so I might of been a reset ecu type if thing as to not show any codes. And I'm about to head out to the garage to set the crank to TDC and pull the valve cover


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If you have KPRO or an OBD2 scanner, see if it pulls any codes. I would pull valve cover too and check your timing chain and TDC.