No its the same pump. K20a3 base Rsx = a2 oil pump.

 

And they're same part number?


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First time having issues with my pump, an I know B-series are different between type r or Ls and stuff


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yes same part number.

And B-series motor are way more better design then the K in terms of the oil pump. B series is driven by the Crank by a separate plate/cover and is internal, i dont know why Honda decided to make the K series oil pump external and driven by a chain but it is.

 

Cool thanks man ya I barrrrely found a site to reference the part numbers. $143 ain't bad. The guy at my shop told me 400 but he gets them from the dealership.


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Out of curiosity, what is the issue with the oil pump you have in there now? RSX oil pumps rarely fail outright.

 

x2. DO you have a oil light on. No pressure, what is the issue and why are you asking if there's a difference? Thinking that like the old skol Honda motors you change a pump and then gain a few hp. Only difference is between the k24 and k20 oil pumps.

 

Last year I spun a bearing and never knew why. The shop took my motor completely apart and saw everything looking fresh minus the bearing and rod. I did a full rebuild top to bottom and broke my motor in properly and slowly revved higher as I was closer to the end of the break in. After 1200 miles and switchin back to my regular oil I gave It some gas and spun another bearing. The shop took it back no questions asked but when tearing it apart he still sounded stumped but said the only thing he could think of was a loss of oil pressure but he did a cleaning of the pump on the original rebuild. So now wee were talking of replacing the oil pump, hence my question was that if I found a deal on a base pump would I suffer.


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Obviously, I have not seen your oil pump firsthand but that does not sound like an oil pump issue. It sounds more like an assembly issue or possibly a starvation issue which was not the fault of the oil pump.

Just my 2-cents.

 

Well the builder is quite reputable russ@steves on fb. Well what are possible starvation causes? The motor ran tits during break in and even a couple WOT moments but only took it to 7800. If you go on his fb you will find cbc's k20 build and it's all the pics from my rebuild.


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Which cylinder spun the bearing?

 

First time was cylinder 2 with temperature showing on the rod. This time idk I have to call him to be sure but I think he said the same one.


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Doesn't sound like a pump to me, either. It should be all 4 rod bearings if it was the pump. Maybe an oblong crank or girdle journal?

 

The crank was polished and balanced.


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Get another oem pump if you thing that was the issue. Sounds like a assembly issue sumthing to that effect. If it was the pump the whole motor would be shot, when oil pumps go they usually kill the whole motor. My 2 cent get a short block from erl then through your head on, Or get a running k24a2 motor. Is the shop going to fix it at no cost or are your payin or going half? You can find pretty easy a k24a2 long block (TSX) engine for 1500 shipped with low miles. Do you have kpro if not that the only other thing needed for a k24, and a crv side mount mount

 

Shops covering everything, no kpro. They ordered the pump from Acura already. No money for another motor right now, besides I'm trying to stay underdog and don't want to build a k24 till I get a shell.


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Just my opinion: There is a lot more likely chance that a bearing will spin from either improper assembly or starvation due to the pickup being exposed (such as road racing) than from the oil pump actually failing. RSX oil pumps are pretty simple and not a lot ever really goes wrong with them. It's not a part you see fail very often.

Now, that is not to say that your pump did not fail, just to say that it would rare, very rare if it indeed did. Best of luck with the rebuild.

 

Thanks and all opinions are welcomed as I came to understand after further research that they are rare to fail indeed. But the circumstances at which my bearing failed were not road race scenarios but straight line acceleration with proper fluid levels.

1st time I dropped 6th-4th with a proper rev match in order to pass a couple cars to merge onto another freeway but shifted at 7k going into 5th and then 6k going back in to 6th all were done in straight line.

2nd time I was just accelerating and shifting at 7k 1st,2nd and let off in 3rd as I heard and felt something


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I am all ears as I would like to see what could possibly be wrong. The builder has 10+years of Honda motors factory or race builds, and plenty of experience with k. More than a couple race shops send their motors over there on a regular basis. Which is what led me to choosing him for the rebuild. But he tells me that the motor shows no obvious signs aside from just the bearing going out.


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Here's the update. I asked more in depth but this was his last response

"the con rods are solid, it's consistant bearing wear in all 4 cyl, which is why I'm suspecting oil pressure. A build error would have a single bad cylinder, and 3 good ones. With a new pump, I'm confident that it will more than live up to your expectations."



So just the first time it was one bad cylinder and this time it was all 4.




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The A3 and A2 oil pumps are different. The A3 oil pump uses harmonic balancing shafts where the A2 doesn't. If you want to use the A2 pump, you're going to have to block the port on the girdle where the oil returns. A2 pump is better.

 

If he put the A2 pump in there and he didn't block that oil port for the balance shafts, then that's where all of your oil pressure is going.

 

No he bought 01500-prb if I'm correct but when I look up k20z1 pump part# that's the one that comes out.


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If you put the K20a2 or K20Z1 pump on any other K motor, you're going to have to plug that oil galley on the girdle otherwise it bleeds off the oil pressure.

 

The Type S oil pumps are the only pumps, besides the S2000 pumps, that don't use balance shafts.

 

Exactly, I'm using factory Z1 pump and not switching out anymore. Buying brand new from the dealer


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