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tire rotation question

6.3K views 26 replies 16 participants last post by  Tomy  
#1 ·
recently hit 8k miles on my car and the maintenance light came on. i already fixed the blinking light problem. ive already done 2 oil changes by myself since i got my car. the question is, do you have to get your tires balanced after you rotate them? i already know how your supposed to rotate fwd cars but i dont know if your supposed to get them balanced afterwards or not.
 
#3 ·
yea, everything is fine just how i got it from the dealership. its just that i think i should rotate my tires now.
another thing, there are different ammount of weights on each rim, whats the deal with that?
 
#4 ·
Not all rims and tires are created 100% equal. Depending on the combination of the rim and tire weight a different amount of weight will be needed in the appropriate location to balance.
 
#6 ·
u certain u know how to rotate them? if they are unidirectional tread u can only swap them front to rear (same side). the procedure is different for omni-directional tread tires. don't forget to torque them to 80 ft/lbs once u have swapped them out.
 
#10 ·
Can't do a x-cross rotation with unidirectional tires.
 
#17 ·
must be diagonal, each tire has a direction in which is has to be mounted. If the tires are not mounted correctly you will have little braking on wet conditions...
 
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#18 ·
Constant rotating only guarantees 4 worn out tires when winter or rainy season comes. See, the ideal tread dist is not 50/50, but more like 60/40r or better 70/30r. I wait and rotate for seasons or will wear out a pair in summer as "smokers". Just PLANNING on buying 2 every winter for front on FWD is a good approach. Fu k tires salesman, thay are idiots and greedy. Keep on the same side, cross-rotation is just for wear problems. As for lug torque, 80ft/lbs is just that, 80 lbs a foot from the center of rotation (the lug) Your wrench is about 1ft, apply 80 lbs (half your weight???) to the end of it and you are in the ballpark.:thumbsup:
 
#19 ·
Also, rotating ACCELERATES wear! When a tire is worn-in on a position on the car, it's ~already~ in it's lowest wear mode. (wear/mile) Change the position and it must re-bed to it's optimal "pattern" and wear is accelerated during that process. Here is the best overall plan- Buy new tires in Fall, drive them all the way to next Fall then rotate the good ones up front for the 2nd winter. Next year buy new tires. If you drive a lot more, get 2 new tires every Fall for the front and rotate them to the rear asap in spring to "preserve" them for the next year. Variations in this scheme are necessary, but this is the basic plan. Personally, I use 2-3 sets of all-seasons. (I drive 30k a year) Fresh for winter, intermediates for spring and fall and summer "smokers". Sets are rotated down the line as needed, but usually I get 2 good winters out of a set if I take them off asap in spring. I always have just the right tread for the season. My woman has a CRV, she has a winter set (fresh all-seasons) and a summer set that are the worn a/s tires. Same thing, 2 good winters out of a set is the target.
 
#20 ·
i drive the car everyday but only like 10 miles, thats y i have such little mileage, but my friend has a tread gauge and the front are noticebly more worn down then the back, so i want to even it out......should i just do a front to back and vice versa, or do it diagonal? or i heard some people switch front to back and then switch the back to different sides?
 
#23 ·
Your fronts will always wear more than the rear, you'll be replacing them early if you swap them too fast because you are accelerating the wear

But if you MUST do it, besides it is your car anyway

are you on stock tires?

Stock tires, you put the left front tire, on the right rear of the car

and the right front, to the left rear

also known as the X pattern
 
#22 ·
i've always heard to criss cross them, so front left to back right, back right to front left, you get the idea. That's only if they're not unidirectional tires though, but if they're not, i'd do that...ya.